追溯光影 明太祖朱元璋在制定明制漢服相關的服飾體系時,做出了許多改變。其中,最主要的一點就是在中后期的明制漢服,是立領和紐扣之類的設計的。所以,大家現(xiàn)在看見的明制漢服,也是有紐扣的設計的,看上去就非常貼合我們現(xiàn)在的服飾。 Retrospect history Zhu Yuanzhang, the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty, made many changes when he formulated the dress system related to Ming dress. Among them, the most important point is that in the middle and later period of the Ming Dynasty Hanfu, there are standing collar and button design. Therefore, the Ming Hanfu we see now is also designed with buttons, which looks very close to our present clothing. 穿 搭 概 覽 Wearing Overview 明朝女子基本穿搭層次原則上是長衣配長外套,短衣配短外套,過膝則為長。上衣,第一層為汗衫,然后是衫或襖(“單衣為衫,夾衣為襖”),最后就是披風或比甲。下著第一層則是裈,第二層是袴,最后就是裙。 襖衫 Unlined upper garment 明代襖衫主要分為大襟與對襟,領則主要分為直領、圓領與豎領(又稱立領),方領數(shù)量比較少,琵琶袖為明制衣服中常見袖型。 Ming women's basic wear layer is in principle a long coat with a long coat, short coat with a short coat, knee is long. Jacket, the first layer for undershirt, then sweater or jacket ('single jacket for jacket, jacket for jacket' ), the last is the cape or armour. The loincloths were the first, the hakama the second and the skirt the last. 明 初 記 憶 Impressions of the early Ming Dynasty 女子搭配于明初,多為直領對襟衫/襖加馬面裙的搭配,外搭比甲,披襖,披風等。 明 中 記 憶 Impression of the middle Ming Dynasty 明中期則是直領大襟短衫/襖加馬面裙。明嘉靖年間,開始圓領衫/襖搭配馬面裙。長襖通裁開衩,腋下沒有辟積。圓領袍長度應當垂到足面,不露/微露裙襕。 Ming Dynasty is a straight collar large skirt/jacket and horse face skirt. During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, the round collar shirt/jacket was paired with horse face skirt. Long jacket through cut vents, armpit no deposit. Tunics should be enough long from waist to foot, it can be exposed or not. 嘉靖初期直領大襟衫/襖加馬面裙,其中衣衫逐漸變大,流行大袖,袖型則偏圓。 萬歷年間,出現(xiàn)豎領長衫/襖搭配馬面裙,至崇禎,長衫/襖外搭披風開始流行。披風在明代是女子便服,直至清才禮服化,但仍以通袖回肘為佳。 封面:網(wǎng)圖設計 排版:溫溫 作者:漢風錦繡 |
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