制作10英尺的風(fēng)力發(fā)電機(jī)組（2）

航寶11 2011-12-24

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Turn the tail bearing all the way counter clockwise so that it comes to stop against the notch on the side opposite that shown in the picture. (one side of the notch needs to come up against the tail bracket, this is the tails 'normal/unfurled' position)

Tack weld the scrap from cutting the tail bearing notch on the other side (the side opposite the alternator) of the tail bearing as shown above. This serves as a reinforcement should the tail come slamming down from the furled position back into the normal position. It'll help keep the notched tail bearing from getting bent or cracking around the notch.

The tail boom is fabricated from 1" shed. 40 pipe, it's 5' long. You need to cope one end of it so that it fits against the tail bearing. The angle between the tail bearing and the tail boom should be about 20 degrees. Pictured above we're cutting a 20 deg angle through half the pipe (leaving the other half cut at 90 deg) - kind of a quick/cheap way to cope the pipe so it fits the tail bearing.

Here is the square tubing we cut that supports the coil winder. We need to cut it off square at 7" length, and drill a 5/16" hole through it.

Cut two of these 5" long from 1" x ?" tubing. One will be welded to the bottom of the tubing. The other requires a hole to be drilled and tapped 5/16" - 18. This one will serve as the crank, and the handle will screw into the tapped hole.
Make this part from a 1" diameter wooden dowel. Overall it's 2.5" long, and we drill through 21/64" so that it turns freely on the 5/16" bolt. We also need to drill in 5/8" with a 5/8" drill bit to accommodate the head of the bolt.

We cut the dowel off with any saw, and then drill it out on the lathe. While it's on the lathe it's nice to round the edges and sand it a bit. If you don't have a lathe, you could do this carefully with a hand drill or drill press, or - if it's just for one machine the wooden handle is not very important, it just makes for more comfortable winding.

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hog

論壇元老

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18^#

發(fā)表于 2010-8-30 11:53 | 只看該作者

Drill a hole (9/64") through the 3.5" long bolt. The hole should be drilled on center at 2 3/8" from the bottom of the bolts head. The 9/64" hole is a good diameter to fit a 16D nail pretty tightly.

The nail serves as a pin to lock the spool to the shaft (the bolt is the shaft)

Make 3 wooden disks. One is of 5/8" plywood (I prefer Baltic birch for this) and is 6" diameter. Another is also 6" diameter, from ?" plywood. We also need a smaller 4" diameter disk (in some of the pictures we show a larger diameter disk on the front of this coil winder that's been cut on two sides down to only 4" tall with two slots. To avoid confusion just make that disk 4" in diameter and keep the slot on one side as described later in the plans). All of these need a 5/16" hole in the center. The 6" dia 5/8" thick disk needs a slot cut to accommodate the nail we use for a pin. The slot should be about 1.4" wide and deep, and 3.5" long so that a 16 penny nail with its head cut off fits in there. Both the 6" dia 5/8" thick disk, and the smaller 4" disk need 4 9/64" holes drilled as shown in the picture above. These holes will accommodate pins around which we'll wind the coils. Take the 6" diameter ?" thick disk, and drill 4 holes, 3/32" evenly spaced on a 5" diameter, and run a countersink in them. We'll be using wood screws to attach this disk to the thicker one, and we want the heads flush with the plywood. It's important that holes line up nicely here. I would suggest screwing the smaller disk, and the thicker 5/8" disk together and drilling all the holes together.

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hog

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發(fā)表于 2010-8-30 11:53 | 只看該作者

Cut a piece of 3/8" plywood rectangular as shown above. It's 1.5" tall, and ?" wide. Drill a 5/16" hole through the center. This serves as a spacer between the disks.

Weld the 5" long bar stock that has no holes in it to the bottom (the end furthest from the hole) of the square tubing. This serves as a base so that we can clamp the coil winder to a workbench.

Put the shorter bolt (2.5" long) through the wooden handle and thread it into the 5" long bar stock which has been drilled and tapped to accept the bolt. Put a washer in between the handle and the bar stock. Thread the bolt in so that the threads come flush with the back of the bar stock, and the handle should turn freely.

Turn it over and spot weld where the bolt is through the bar stock -this assures that the handle will never come loose.

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hog

論壇元老

Rank: 8 Rank: 8

20^#

發(fā)表于 2010-8-30 11:53 | 只看該作者

Take the longer bolt (the one with the hole drilled in it) and weld it to the other end of the handle as shown in the picture. It needs to be square!

Put a washer over the bolt that's sticking out (we always want a washer between any part that turns, and any part that doesn't) and insert the bolt through the hole in the square tubing.

Put another washer on and then put the 6" diameter ?" thick disk on. The countersunk holes need to be pointing back, towards the handle.

Insert the pin through the shaft and center it.

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